A little update on my Rasp Cleaver. I'm a bit sad that my picture didn't come out as well as it should have, but I snapped a few of this one before sending it on its merry little way. I really should have glanced through the photos before shipping it, but I was in a rush. >.<
However! The main update is that I moved my stamp to the butt of the handle. I also sharpened it all the way down the blade rather than giving it a choil like I normally do. Since it's made for cleaving, it didn't really need one.
I will also be coming out with a second version of this style. I like the osage orange for it's strength, but I'll be adding another option to this one later on. When that time comes, I promise I'll do a better job of photographing it.
This is a very successful photo of this knife. Good lighting showing the textures and patterns. Making this knife from a rasp is clever in concept, but this piece also celebrated the inherent pattern of the rasp repurposed. You have successfully transformed one useful object into another while keeping its visual qualities, therefore leaving the history of the object intact. Very interesting indeed. The organic yellow ochre handle hue stands out nicely on the grey denim background. The last note, is the shine of the tip of the blade that is mirrored in the opposite corner of the composition. Bravo.
I've always been curious about these. Does it have a chisel bevel or a dual bevel? Was it annealed for forging or was it simply shaped little by little and cooled repeatedly to avoid ruining the temper?
Dual bevel. I always anneal them for forging, I mean realistically, you wouldn't have to if you are getting it to critical temperature for forging. It's going to move no matter how hard it is in that state. However, annealing it seems to relieve some of the stress and possible cracks/fractures that might occur. Usually those only happen to me when I'm forging at a low temperature and that are usually hairline fractures in the middle of the blade. The temper is the last thing you do to a knife. All of my profiling and grinding is complete before I harden and temper. I make sure to go up to around 400-600 grit, that way if the scale does occur while hardening, then I can easily get it off with 320 grit without creating a lot of heat. A majority of the time I'm also doing it by hand, so there is literally no heat being created. Then I temper and sharpen. That way I don't mess anything up. Takes more time, but it is worth it.
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